World Pastry Forum Article as published in Pastry Art and Design

World Pastry Forum 2003

Las Vegas is not just for gambling. Pastry Chefs from around the world assembled in Las Vegas, Nevada from June 28-July 5 to witness the crème de la crème of the pastry world demonstrate their knowledge and talent to all that had the good fortune to attend. Some of the notables that presented were Ewald Notter, Sebastien Canonne, Olivier Bajard, and Albert Adria. This was the first opportunity I had to attend, but certainly will not be the last. It was an exciting, inspiring, and educational experience that most will not soon forget.

The forum began on Sunday, and for 5 days presented 2 classes each day, with the forum culminating in a two day competition to choose the National Pastry Championship Team, who will represent the United States in next years Culinary Olympics.

The first class on my schedule was one of the ones I was looking forward to the most. It was a class on silicone mold making, taught by Michael Joy, and sponsored by Chef Rubber. You may think he is a chef, but he is not at all. He is a master mold maker. What was so interesting is that he is able to adapt his craft to the confectionary field, and provide pastry chefs with a new and innovative way to think about creating shapes and objects in a medium that was not readily available before. He demonstrated the equipment and products necessary to create silicone molds, both food grade, and non food grade, and master molds. He also had pastry chefs on hand to demonstrate the uses and different techniques necessary to use these molds successfully, as well as beautiful pieces on display to show their versatility.

Cordon Bleu Pastry Chef Instructor Nicolas Bernarde created a chocolate showpiece, demonstrating the techniques he used to build it. Despite the fact that some of his luggage ended up in Philadelphia, not Las Vegas, this did not stop him from showing some very interesting and creative techniques, such as his rolled chocolate in sugar, to create interesting shapes and designs, as well as the creation of some elegant chocolate flowers, which he airbrushed beautifully.

Sebastien Canonne taught a class on plated desserts, sponsored by Cacao Barry. This is the third time I have had the wonderful opportunity to attend one of his classes. His technical ability is unprecedented. He first and foremost stressed that the most important point one should consider is respect. Respect for the ingredients and the quality of ingredients, and also for the methods and techniques. The goal is to be able to incorporate all these ideas, with flavors, to create an incredible and well balanced dessert. He also showed how the layering of flavors can create a different and exciting experience to your palate. Truly incredible!

Bernd Siefert, World Champion in Pastry, demonstrated the production of gelato, and frozen desserts, sponsored by PreGel. He introduced new equipment such as the PacoJet and gelato machine, as well as some of the PreGel products. He made flavors of gelato such as vanilla with chocolate crunch, praline, chocolate, and everyone’s favorite, pistachio, as well as tequila granite, all were delicious. He created and decorated various ice cream cakes beautifully, as well as designed some magnificent plated desserts.

Day three for me began with the master of sugar workers Ewald Notter, sponsored by Albert Uster. His abilities and technical knowledge of sugar and isomalt are unparalleled and world renowned. His presentation dealt with building a sugar showpiece using many different techniques. He created beautiful flowers, tubes of isomalt in varying shapes and sizes, and interesting and unique accent pieces. This was the second time I have attended one of his classes, and I am never disappointed.

Rustic French Desserts was presented by Olivier Bajard, sponsored by E. Guittard. Well, what can I say about Olivier. I have also attended classes with him, and he is always entertaining, and truly talented. He combined his knowledge, techniques, and engaging sense of humor to create an atmosphere of fun and education. We all laughed a lot. He produced and then we sampled four different classical desserts, arranged beautifully. The Galette des Rois, and pithiviers, were simple and yet perfectly elegant, the Religieuse tall and dramatic. His technique for making chocolate flowers is outstanding.

Techniques in pastillage were presented by Jacquy Pfeiffer, sponsored by Albert Uster. This was the first time I had met Jacquy, and I was completely impressed. He is a great artist. He demonstrated many techniques in pastillage and also isomalt. He showed how to assemble a very sturdy and supportive base on which to build your showpiece. The cast pastillage fish, dipped in red isomalt was elegant and beautiful, the rock sugar egg captivating, but by far the most impressive part of his presentation was his airbrush technique. His thoughts regarding the layering of colors to create a deeper and more intense effect were inspiring.

Amoretti sponsored a class given by Albert Adria on textures. This gentleman was by far one of the most interesting chefs that presented at the Forum. His visions regarding his desserts were so innovative and yet simplistic. He stated “What complicates a dessert is temperature and texture,” and went on to demonstrate this philosophy. He prepared a mango in many different ways, including mango sorbet, crisps, pearls, leather, gelee, tagliatelli, etc., and assembled beautiful plates with these components. The flavor – so simplistic – a mango, the textures and temperatures complex and interesting. His suggestion that we make and try olive caramel sauce to serve with dessert, had all concluding that this gentleman is truly an innovator and definitely on the cutting edge of the pastry world.

Didier Rosada, Sponsored by Demarle, gave and extremely informative lecture on bread baking and fermentation. His technical knowledge of the subject matter was outstanding. He presented in depth information regarding ingredients used in yeast bread production, the way these ingredients interact with each other, mixing methods, and then how to manipulate all of these things to get the perfect finished product you desire. He also had some beautiful and interesting breads on display.

My last class of the week, but certainly not the least, was given by Franz Ziegler, sponsored by Felchlin. He demonstrated chocolate and marzipan techniques. His theme was Halloween, and he created some great creatures that captured that theme. He even gave us all some marzipan, and under his direction we all created an owl. However, the most impressive piece was a large chocolate haunted house, on top of a rocky chocolate hill sprayed with cocoa, complete with a full moon, dead trees and bats flying around. A seemingly complicated piece that of course he made look extremely easy.

The last two days of the Forum was the Pastry Competition to choose the team to represent the United States next year in the Culinary Olympics. The theme of the competition was Broadway. The first day of the competition was plated desserts, and preparation time for the final day of competition. On day two each team had to present a sugar showpiece, a chocolate showpiece, entremets, and various other pastry items. The competition was outstanding, each chef and each team showing proof of the long hours of planning, designing, and practicing to get to this point. All worked very hard and diligently to try to reach their goal of winning the Gold. All are winners! Congratulations to team Caillot – GO FOR THE GOLD! When the competition was finished it became apparent that we had witnessed some of the best pastry work ever to be seen, extremely innovative and creative.

To me the opportunity have been able to attend such an event is certainly a privilege. The atmosphere created by the presence of the presenters, competitors, and students was overwhelming. One can not help but feel inspired and excited at the opportunity to take all those things we learned home with us and use them to create our own exciting and new desserts.